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When to visit Victoria Falls, and what the water is doing

Victoria Falls does not have a good season and a bad season. It has two quite different versions of itself, and the mistake is arriving expecting one and finding the other.

High water, roughly February to May

This is the falls at full volume. The Zambezi is in flood, the whole face is a curtain of water, and the noise is constant. The spray column rises high enough to be seen from a long way off, which is where the name Mosi-oa-Tunya comes from.

It is genuinely overwhelming, and there is a catch: at peak flow the spray can be so heavy that you cannot see the falls from the viewpoints. You will get soaked. Bring a raincoat, put your phone somewhere sealed, and accept that some photographs are not going to happen.

Peak is usually around April.

Low water, roughly September to December

The flow drops and the rock face is exposed. You can see the structure of the gorge, the individual cataracts separate out, and photography is far easier.

Some people find it underwhelming after seeing pictures of the flood. Others prefer it, because you can actually see what you are looking at.

Low water is also when the gorge activities are at their best, and when Devil’s Pool on the Zambian side is most likely to be running. That pool is entirely dependent on river levels and is not a year-round thing.

Wildlife runs on a different clock

The dry months, roughly June to September, concentrate animals around whatever water is left. That is what makes Hwange’s waterholes and the Chobe riverfront so productive in that window. Elephants gather at the Chobe in numbers that are difficult to describe.

The green season brings birds, better landscapes and fewer people, but the game is dispersed and harder to find.

So when should you come

If you want the falls at their most dramatic, come around April and accept the spray.

If you want to photograph them clearly, come between September and November.

If wildlife is the point, come in the dry months and give Hwange or Chobe more than a day.

If you want a bit of everything, June to August is the compromise: decent water still coming over, good game viewing, and the gorge activities running.

Tell us what matters most to you and we will tell you honestly whether your dates suit it.